Friday, February 15, 2013

A Story of Suffering

Last week I spent five days in rural Eastern Cape, near the border of Lesotho, conducting research in the villages in the area. I had the privilege of holding focus group discussions in people's homes, and hearing about their lives and their struggles. I came across a story that really moved me. It goes something like this.
A woman was devastated when her child died, and went to the healer in her village, begging him to bring the baby back to life. The healer said he would bring the child back to life. He gave the woman a cup, and said "Fetch me a cup full of sugar from any house in the village. But make sure the sugar comes from a home that has never experienced suffering." Delighted, the woman set off to fill the cup of sugar. At the end of two days, the woman came back to the healer with an empty cup, and asked him to give her back her child's body so that she could bury it.




Nuggets of Gold II

Another golden nugget from the BP on Jan Smuts Avenue.


Wednesday, February 13, 2013

Nuggets of Gold

Have you ever noticed the daily dose of wisdom that's sprawled on the blackboards outside the BP on Jan Smuts Avenue? Watch this space for a stream of golden nuggets from the side of the road.


Monday, February 11, 2013

High Tea

The Westcilff Hotel is Johannesburg's answer to old fashioned finery. One should really go there for high tea on a Saturday, I suppose, but since I'm going to be unemployed soon, I decided to just have a cocktail called High Tea instead. The view is quite beautiful, and it's fun to play posh for a bit while you watch the light fade over the big Jozi forest.








Saturday, February 09, 2013

A Lurid Legacy

I'm torn between sharing a very emotional account of my visit to the Apartheid Museum, and simply saying, "Go and see the Apartheid Museum" because I cannot quite capture the experience in words or in photographs. 

This is not a fun day out, but I think it's something people should really do. You may think you know the history, but the feeling of submersing yourself in the stories and images in a space dedicated to the memories and sacrifices of a brutal regime cannot be replaced by any other form of account. So...
Go and see the Apartheid Museum.





The current temporary exhibition at the Apartheid Museum takes you on a journey through Nelson Mandela's life. At the end, you are given the opportunity to choose your favourite group of his famous quotes, select a stick of the corresponding colour, and place it among other people's selections. A friendly tourist offered to take my picture.

Sunday, February 03, 2013

Recipe for a Red Hot Concert

Soccer City - Diepkloof
  1. To prepare, light fire, throw on some meat, crack open some beers, put on some tunes. 
  2. Leave to simmer for a few hours.
  3. Then take one bus, fill it with 20 awesome people; add some more beers.
  4. Send the bus to Soccer City; fill the stadium with people who're ready to rock.
  5. Make sure you leave some time to deal with any frightfully disorganised and illogical venue officials who can't control a crowd.
  6. If necessary, allow the people to relieve themselves, and refill with fresh beers before going downstairs into the stadium.
  7. Find a sweet spot in the crowd; stick together; protect your territory; get psyched.
  8. Season to taste with some Red Hot Chili Peppers! 













I Want to Ride My Bicycle

Critical Mass is a bicycle event that happens in cities all over the world, usually on the last Friday evening of the month. The original Critical Mass was started in San Francisco in 1992, and was intended as nothing more than a gathering of people to ride their bicycles through the city together. More recently, however, Critical Mass events have been perceived, from the outside, as a form of protest action; a "take back the streets" style protest, although this is never the intention. Jozi recently caught on, with its first inner city ride held in June last year.

I took part at the end of January, along with hundreds of other bicyclists, kitted up in spandex and lumo. I really enjoy using my bike to get from A to B, and I did a lot of that when I lived in Cape Town. I've missed being able to do that in Joburg, so I loved the idea of cycling through the city, especially at night. I had a wonderful time, and would recommend the event to anyone. It's probably about a 20km ride, and takes at least two hours, so it's slow enough for anyone with a bike in their garage to do, no matter how thick the cobwebs are.

As much as I enjoyed the ride, I do want to say that this event is not - and should not be seen as - just a frivolous bike ride through the city. In the Joburg version, no matter the intention, cyclists experience (I hope) a very real political moment as they cycle through the streets of the inner city. Still very much a segregated society, the disparities in wealth and race are starkly juxtaposed as hundreds of mostly white, well-off individuals cycle through the neighbourhoods of mostly black, poor communities. Perplexed, residents of oversubscribed, structurally compromised high-rise buildings hang out of their windows; confused pedestrians line the streets; and frustrated taxi divers wait impatiently, as a mass of audacious, neon clad bicyclists ride by.

I'm not saying the event should be condemned, or even shunned. I'm merely pointing out that it's important to be self-aware and humble as we impose our sparkling herd on the unsuspecting streets of the inner city residents. So often, middle class Joburgers think they're being progressive by going for a drink at a 'shabeen' in Vilakazi street, or venturing down to the Maboneng Precinct. And yet, we'll only do these things if we've got strength and security in numbers because we're not actually integrating ourselves at all. We're aware that we're imposing, but we're too cowardly to admit it. I think it's just important when we do visit places like these, or when we take part in an event like Critical Mass, that we are respectful of the people that we encounter; that we recognise that we are visitors, and that we openly acknowledge and reflect on the fact that we are outsiders. The most important step in bringing about real integration is acknowledging the realities of the starting point.

See you on the corner of de Beers and Juta streets in Braamfontein on the 22nd of February for the next instalment of Critical Mass!










P.S. Click here to find out about an actual cycle race that I will be doing in March. 

Live at the Bassline

Bassline - Newtown

Since moving to Joburg, I've been dying to experience Bassline, the city's most famous live venue. Originally opened in Melville in 1994, the club was host to some of South Africa's best jazz musicians and live recordings. In 2003, the Bassline closed, but was soon reopened in Newtown, where it now features live music across all genres.

So, I got together with some friends and went to the Bassline to see the man they call "the Hendrix of the Sahara", Malian musician Vieux Farka Toure. What a show; what a crowd, what an atmosphere!



The supporting act was the wonderfully hipster and talented South African artist, Bongiziwe Mabandla.





Marché du Samedi

Alliance Française Market - Parkview

Croissants taste better when eaten in the company of Francophones...

The Alliance Française held a little Saturday market at the beginning of the year. I popped 'round with a friend to get some information and a croissant.